/me googles about them -- that looks perfect. Does the pilot hole actually need to be drilled with a hammer drill, or can I get away with an ordinary power drill? I assume the carbide bit is non-negotiable.
You can probably get away with a strong drill (not your standard-issue rechargeable, but a strong rechargeable or a corded drill).
Alternately, in some situations, it's easier to drill into the ceiling above, find something substantial to screw into, and mount rubber stoppers on the back of the pegboard so it doesn't swing around much.
Some day I will have a rechargeable DeWalt like ti94's dad has (it tore right through a steel cabinet with a 2" hole-saw bit!), but for now, my 5-amp corded Craftsman is my best buddy.
Most corded drills will work just fine - they tend to have more power than rechargeable anyway.
Also, Patrick T makes a good point about offsetting from the wall. I'm doing this for my garage really soon(not a brick wall) and pretty much building a (hollywood) flat (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flats_(theatre)) and hanging it on hooks.
I have had no trouble going through regular construction brick with any random driver, you just have to go slow and be patient. Have spare bits. There are harder brick variants that are not friendly at all, then you go into the mortar. Depending on what you will be mounting on the board, spacing it out from the wall is key. We mounted one once by sinking strips of 1x2 into the wall then the board to the 1x2s.
What shingkor said. Though it depends a bit on how much weight the pegboard (and therefore the anchors) are going to carry. If it's going to be very light, you could probably get away with plastic anchor/screw sets. But the self-tapping concrete screws hold more and are less trouble.
Mostly it'll be for hand tools, though I'm going to see if I can get some plastic bins to keep electronic components organised. Self-tapping concrete screws sound like a total win.
That's what the theater set shop I worked in would do, but then, they just like the big masculine tools and grinding red dust, all dramatic like "we're getting shit done here."
But it does work. Not too hard either, and I fancy you have quite the ability for this sort of thing.
I might go that route if we were planning to be here for a long time, but we're probably going to be looking for a bigger place within a year. I'll keep this in mind, though, thanks!
I would recommend standing the board off from the wall on wood furring strips at least 1/2" thick. Attach the wood strips to the wall top and bottom using the self-tapping anchors or drilled in expansion anchors, then attach the pegboard to the wood strips using regular wood screws.
The slight offset from the wall will allow you to use various pegboard hooks without interference from the wall behind, and a gap for air circulation is never a bad idea anyway when placing wood products against brick or concrete.
Oh, good call, especially since this will be going in a somewhat damp cellar. Thanks! It'll make recovering the pegboard when we move much easier, too, and I have a near-infinite source of scrap wood available.
If you don't want to drill holes, and the mortar is recessed, these hooks (http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=1&p=10437&cat=2,2260,33144) might be a good solution. I haven't tried them myself but Lee Valley doesn't sell crap; everything I've ever bought there has been as good as or better than advertised.
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(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 08:38 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 08:40 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 09:04 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 09:11 pm (UTC)Alternately, in some situations, it's easier to drill into the ceiling above, find something substantial to screw into, and mount rubber stoppers on the back of the pegboard so it doesn't swing around much.
(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 09:15 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 09:36 pm (UTC)Also, Patrick T makes a good point about offsetting from the wall. I'm doing this for my garage really soon(not a brick wall) and pretty much building a (hollywood) flat (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flats_(theatre)) and hanging it on hooks.
(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-08 03:41 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 08:45 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 09:08 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 08:47 pm (UTC)That's what the theater set shop I worked in would do, but then, they just like the big masculine tools and grinding red dust, all dramatic like "we're getting shit done here."
But it does work. Not too hard either, and I fancy you have quite the ability for this sort of thing.
(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 09:17 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 09:02 pm (UTC)The slight offset from the wall will allow you to use various pegboard hooks without interference from the wall behind, and a gap for air circulation is never a bad idea anyway when placing wood products against brick or concrete.
(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 09:06 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 11:13 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 11:42 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 11:50 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2009-10-07 11:52 pm (UTC)